Eating Oxford

Olive Oil, Part 2: Demystifying the Grades of Olive Oil

Published

12 years ago

April 16, 2014

By Laurie Triplette
ldtriplette@aol.com
In this four-part series, food writer Laurie Triplette focues on demystifying olive oil, which has been a darling of the American food world for years. Triplette claims that the world of olive oil contains as many mysteries as most Southern families hide in our gene pools.
Click on the following links to catch up on the series: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4.
PART 2: DEMYSTIFYING THE GRADES OF OLIVE OIL
To understand grades of olive oil produced from the “juice” of the olive, we must understand a bit about its botanical structure.
The olive tree is Olea Europea L. sativa, the domesticated cousin of the wild Olea Europea L. oleaster, native to the Mediterranean basin and most of the Middle East. They are both members of a family of Oleaceae that include jasmines, lilacs, and ashes. Olive trees flourish in the same climates where grapes grow, and take many years to reach full production. But they live for hundreds of years, and send out shoots from the roots, enabling damaged trees to regenerate. Many of the best olives in Europe and the Middle East are still harvested from trees that are hundreds of years old.

Where do olive oils fit into the world of cooking oils—and how do we make sense of different olive oils?

Olive oil is the only commercially sold oil that comes from pressing fruit rather than seeds (such as safflower, peanut, canola, soy) or tree nuts (such as walnuts and almonds). The olive fruit is a drupe (flesh that surrounds a seed, it is a stone fruit like cherries, peaches and plums). The olive flesh contains mesocarp cells that produce tiny droplets of oil — it is the end product of photosynthesis and is a means by which the olive tree provides a built-in energy storage system for nourishing olive seedlings in arid climates.
As soon as the olive separates from the tree, enzymes begin to break down the oil into a sort of compost surrounding the seed. The olive oil continues to deteriorate as the seedling is germinated. That’s why it is important for consumers to know which olive oils are made from picked olives rather than from fallen olives.
All olive oils are classified into three basic grades: Extra virgin, virgin, and olive oil. They are graded according their production method, acid content and flavors. There’s a fourth category called olive-pomace oil, which is oil created by a refining process involving hexane to extract the oil from the solid waste dregs (pits, skin and flesh) remaining after pressing out the better oils. Pomace is used for commercial purposes.
But here’s where it gets complicated. Extra virgin olive oil can be subclassified as premium or ultra premium extra virgin (the highest quality) or as extra virgin. Virgin olive oil can be further subclassified as fine virgin, virgin, or as semi-fine virgin. The olive oil classification includes what once were called pure olive oil and refined oil.
There is no universal grading standard applied internationally. Most countries adhere to the International Olive Council (IOC) standards. The Aussies have their own standards, the U.S. has its own, and Canada has its own system.
The difference in grading between the classifications of extra virgin and virgin depends on the acid content. Some grade differences can be only a fraction of a percent in difference. Olive oil experts have been trained to tell the difference, and consumers in the cradle of olive oil production (Spain, Italy, the Mediterranean and the Middle East) tend to know the difference from a lifetime of exposure to the good stuff. We Americans have a lot of catching up to do.

Olive oils’ characteristics and quality result from conditions as significant as those that produce the grapes for wines.
These conditions include the variety of olive grown, the location and soil where it’s grown the weather during the growing season, the ripeness of the olives and HOW they are picked or gathered, the length of time between harvesting and processing, the actual method of processing, and the packaging and storage of the processed oil all affect the quality of the product.
To produce high quality oils, the olives must be harvested without breaking the fruit skins and should be processed within 12 to 24 hours of harvest. The olives are graded and separated by quality. Leaves and debris are removed by blowers rather than washing, and the olives are crushed into a paste. The oils can be extracted from the paste by pressing in a stone mill or hammer milling process, or by centrifugal decanting, selective filtration, or a combination of these methods.
The extra-virgin and virgin oils are made from the first pressing of ripe olives picked from trees, which removes about 90 percent of the juice from the olives. The juice in olives breaks out as about 20 percent oil and 80 percent water; the water must be removed during the pressing process. Extra virgin and virgin oils are not allowed to use chemicals or high heat for this, and no refined oils may be added to these oils. In other words, no additional processing or refining occurs to extra virgin and virgin oils after the first pressing.
After processing, the oil should be store for 1 to 3 months to settle out any remaining fruit water and particulates. This eliminates sediment in bottles and also removes oil contact with processing-water residues that could taint the flavors. High quality oils will note the “first crush” dates on their bottling labels. Properly prepared and stored olive oil is good for about two years after first crush. Once opened, it’s good for about 6 months if stored properly away from heat and light.
The International Olive Council (IOC) is an intergovernmental organization founded in 1959 by the United Nations to supply advice to growers and millers, and to fund research in oil quality and chemistry. Headquartered in Madrid, Spain, it includes 43 member nations (including the European Union (EU) and EU nations). More than 98 percent of the world’s olive oil is from olives grown in IOC member nations.
The IOC Standards are as follows:

Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Lowest acidity as low as 0.225 percent; best suited for adding to dishes uncooked such as salads, dips, and as a condiment on meats and veggies

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: No more than 0.8 percent acidity for IOC standards; with a fruity taste, ranging from pale yellow to bright green in color; also best used uncooked

Fine Virgin Olive Oil: Must have a “good” taste according to IOC standards, acidity no more than 1.5 percent;

Virgin Olive Oil: Must have a “good” taste and with acidity no more than 2 percent; cannot contain any refined oil, good for cooking or consuming uncooked

Semi-fine Virgin Olive Oil: Must have acidity no higher than 3.3 percent; excellent for cooking, not enough flavor to enjoy uncooked

Lite Olive Oil (also called Light or Mild): Has undergone extremely fine filtration process without heat or chemicals to remove most of the natural color, aroma and flavor; best suited for cooking or baking in recipes

The U.S. is not an IOC member. Our U.S. Department of Agriculture established its own standards in 1948, and does not recognize IOC classifications. In 2010, the USDA published the United States Standards for Grades of Olive Oil and Olive-Pomace Oil.
The USDA standards for grading American olive are as follows:

U.S. Extra Virgin Olive Oil: has excellent flavor and odor and acidity not more than 0.8 percent;

U.S. Virgin Olive Oil: Virgin olive oil with reasonably good flavor and odor (not more than 2.0 percent acidity;

U.S. Lampante Virgin Olive Oil (also known as U.S. Olive Oil not fit for human consumption without further processing): Virgin olive oil with poor flavor and odor; intended for refining or for purposes other than food use;

U.S. Olive Oil: A blend of refined olive oil and virgin olive oils fit for consumption without further processing; has acceptable odor and flavor characteristics of virgin oil;

U.S. Refined Olive Oil: Obtained from virgin olive oils by refining methods that do not lead to alterations in the initial glyceridic structure; flavorless and odorless.

Like wine tasters, olive oil tasters sniff it first. They slurp it into their mouths, inhaling as they slurp to experience the olfactory sensory qualities of the oil. Good quality olive oil produces an astringent sensation in the back of the throat. The oil will smell and feel fresh and pleasant, with varying degrees of astringency, bitterness, or pepperiness.
Color also is important, although unscrupulous sellers have a history of altering color of inferior oils. Emerald-green-tinged olive oils come from unripe olives, and contain a slightly bitter flavor with overtones of fruity, grassy, peppery flavors. Golden colored oils are made from ripe olives, and contain a milder, buttery flavor.
Good olive oils are graded for positive attributes and for negative attributes. It seems counter intuitive, but the positive attributes of extra virgin olive are classified as follows:

Fruity: The basic positive attribute of virgin olive oils, from both ripe and unripe olives;

Bitter: The characteristic taste of olives that are green or turning color toward ripe, produced buy solutions of quinine, caffeine and various alkaloids;

Pungent: The biting sensation characteristic of oil produced at the start of the crop year, primarily from unripe olives (REF: IOOC, 1987)

The negative characteristics identified by professional tasters are called sensory defects, and may occur alone or in varying combinations.

Fusty: Olives were stored in piles that had gone through fermentation – think sour milk;

Musty: Moldy flavor from the fruit in which fungi and yeast developed as a result of being stored in humid conditions;

Muddy sediment: Left in contact with tank and vat sediment;

Winey-vinegary: Resulting from fermentation); rancid (oxidation and fragmentation into compounds;

Heated or burnt: Cooked flavors resulting from excessive heating during processing;

Hay or woody: Produced from olives that were dried out or frozen;

Greasy: Reminiscent of greases;

Vegetable water: Resulting from prolonged contact with liquid, nonoil component of the olive called fruit-water;  Briny: Olives were preserved in brine;

Earthy: The olives were collected with earth or mud on them and not washed.

Both the positive attributes and sensory defects in olive oil are attributable to volatile compounds. As olive oil ages, its volatile compounds break down, forming increasing amounts of free oleic acid. As the acidity rises, the flavor diminishes.
Light and extra light olive oils are created by extra filtration and actually are refined olive oils. They do not have less fat than virgin and extra virgin olive oils, but do have less flavor, which makes them desirable for use in baking and frying. Light and extra light olive oils have a longer shelf life than extra virgin or virgin olive oils.
Fused oils are made by pressing high quality fresh olives with fresh fruit or veggies. Fused olive oils are called agrumato olive oil in Italy. Fused oils are less common than infused oils, but hold their flavor longer than infused oils and don’t turn rancid as quickly.
More than 90 percent of all fused olive oils are made in the Northern Hemisphere, at the end of the growing season mid-December through late January. This time frame eliminates the possibility for fusion of most fruits and veggies. That’s why most basil or garlic or vegetable flavored oils are infusions created by adding essential plant oils to olive oil.
Buyers need to be cautions when purchasing infused oils: Adding flavors is a trick often used by sellers when attempting to disguise poor quality olive oil. Even more outrageous is the usage of synthetic flavorings by some sellers.
Normal consumers who buy olive oil for home use constantly seek new ways of identifying good oils from bad. The smell test and the taste test remain the best barometers we can use.
It’s a myth that only extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) will coagulate when refrigerated. It is true that EVOO’s consist primarily of monounsaturated fats that coagulate under normal refrigeration temperatures. Also true is that low quality refined oils will not coagulate when refrigerated. Other oils used to adulterate olive oils tend to be polyunsaturated fats, which require much lower temperatures for coagulation. However, no two olive oils have the same monounsaturated fat consistency, and the fridge test is not accurate.
Experts recommend that American consumers look for quality seals on bottles of olive oil (North American Olive Oil Association Quality Seal or IOC seals). Also look for first crush dates, and country of origin in addition to country of bottling.
Next up: PART 3: Why Do We Care About Olive Oil? (Think Health Benefits)
Laurie Triplette is a writer, historian, and accredited appraiser of fine arts, dedicated to preserving Southern culture and foodways. Author of the award-winning community family cookbook GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’, and editor of ZEBRA TALES (Tailgating Recipes from the Ladies of the NFLRA), Triplette is a member of the Association of Food Journalists (AFJ),Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA) and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SOFAB). Check out the GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’ web site: www.tripleheartpress.com and follow Laurie’s food adventures on Facebook and Twitter (@LaurieTriplette).

Related Topics:cooking fruit IOC Middle East trees

Up Next

Wonder Why Crawfish is $7 per pound? Look to the Chilly Weather

Don't Miss

Food for Thought: Our Favorite Recipes for Easter

Click to comment

Eating Oxford

The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford

A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends

Published

10 months ago

November 15, 2025

Andy Hodges

OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.

Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.

The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.

A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.

The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.

Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.

Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.

Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.

One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.

The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.

For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.

Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.

Menu impressions and pacing

Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.

Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.

Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.

One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.

It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.

Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.

Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.

Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.

These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.

The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.

Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.

The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.

When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.

This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.

Final thoughts

The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.

Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.

The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.

Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.

For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.

Key takeaways

The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.
Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.
Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.

Eating Oxford

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.

Published

10 months ago

November 12, 2025

Andy Hodges

The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.

The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.

From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny Bar, Back Nine, Quack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.

The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.

So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.

To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.

You can register for the event here: Pirate Pub Crawl

The first “docking” of the boat will be at the Powerhouse Thursday night

Eating Oxford

Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service

At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out

Published

12 months ago

September 17, 2025

Andy Hodges

OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.

It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.

A first impression that lasts

Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.

Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.

There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.

Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.

A menu with depth and purpose

The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.

The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.

These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.

Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.

The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.

Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.

Service that elevates the experience

While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.

In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.

That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.

Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.

Finishing strong with dessert and drinks

When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.

Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.

Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.

The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.

Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.

Consistency and craft at the center

Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.

A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.

It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.

Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.

Location and hours of operation

Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655
Phone: (662) 236‑1144
Hours:
- Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
- Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
- Sunday: Closed
- Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.
- More details at lenorasrestaurant.com

3 key takeaways

Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.
Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.
Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.