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Eating Oxford

Wine Stories: Memphis Wins the Beaujolais Race

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Editor’s Note: This is an exerpt from John Hailman’s book The Search for Good Wine. This particular chapter of the book was written on November 20, 1983.

Memphis, Tennessee

Memphis, Tennessee


Memphis – The honorary capital of North Mississippi has made great strides in recent years, but greatest of all was the restoration of the lobby of the Peabody Hotel (completed in 1981).
Once again it is the place to go for a relaxing drink and culturally unique and magnificent surroundings. At last, there is someplace you can invite someone to, as Dr. Johnson would have said. Even the acoustics are excellent, the enormous ceilings and plush carpets absorbing just enough sound to create a convivial hubbub while preventing the serious roars that mere bars usually end up with.
In November 1983, the Peabody hosted, at its revitalized Dux restaurant overlooking the lobby, the Mid-South’s first entry in what has become known as “The Great Beaujolais Race.” For the past few years, it has been customary for fine restaurants and wine-tasting groups all over the world to jet in several cases of freshly bottled nouveau (new) Beaujolais, scarcely two months after the grapes were picked.
Under French law, no wine may be shipped out of the country before November 15 and this year, The Peabody managed to receive its shipment, with help from intervening time zones and an energetic local distributor, just in time to serve it at a 10 a.m. pre-Thanksgiving brunch on the very day of its release, thus bettering than the Big Apple.
This feat was much appreciated by visiting wine writers and other lucky souls who qualified the new wine unabashedly through three full-courses, including a traditional pumpkin soup, large plates of small tender lamb chops, and plates of large, stuffed baked potatoes.
The Peabody Hotel in Memphis, Tenn.

The Peabody Hotel in Memphis, Tenn.


Beaujolais Day, which began as an obvious gimmick to sell more Beaujolais wine, has performed an unusual trick, which is the exact opposite of too many recent Christmases: It has taken pure commercialism and turned it into an occasion of generosity, merriment, and goodwill. We didn’t need Omar Khayyam or Santa Claus last Tuesday to tell us we were having a good time. As Omar once said, “What can winemakers buy that is one-half so precious as what they sell?”
In the flashiest cities, like New York and Houston, the occasion has been overplayed, with one restaurant offering 15 different day-old Beaujolais for a portentous comparative tasting. Even the staid British launched their Beaujolais Day last year with a soldier parachuting Falklands-style out of a plane into the Thames River, holding the very first bottle of Beaujolais of the year.
The Peabody was much more tasteful. Peabody general manager Czaba Ajan (pronounced shah-bah ah-zhahn), who directed the event, is an established wine guru with impeccable California credentials. A native to Transylvania, he has lived in the United States since 1962, but even now his name alone gives a whole new level of meaning to the word “exotic”. Ajan kept the proceedings at the Peabody merry, but low-key, as befits a light and simple red wine, meant to be drunk slightly chilled from pitchers. The event was also limited to the fine Beaujolais villages of a single shipper, the renowned George Duboeuf, an ally and protégé of the even more renowned chef Paul Bocuse.
Bottles of Beaujolais wine

Bottles of Beaujolais wine


The wine was true to its nature: a light, soft, un-acidic beverage with a brilliant translucence of color, a sort of pleasantly purple-ish dark rose. As Hugh Johnson once described it, a nouveau is “a joy to swallow” and “all to easy to drink”. It is an uncomplicated wine, made not to be discussed or meditated upon, but to be quaffed freely with pleasure among friends. On the wine list were four good Beaujolais, all much heavier and more acidic wines than the nouveau.
Of the four, the simple Beaujolais of Cruse was the lightest and the closest to the nouveau wines just arrived, which retail in Memphis for prices that negate what they used to be called: the best “cheap” red wine in the world.
But whatever the vagaries of taste and price, Beaujolais, which Thomas Jefferson visited by stagecoach on March 9, 1789, and described as “the richest country I ever beheld,” and whose wines he later stocked in his personal cellar in America, will probably always be one of the world’s most popular wines. It was also one of the best wines for traditional Thanksgiving dinners because it goes unusually well with nearly every food, from spicy dressing to both light and dark turkey meat. It is also the red wine most often enjoyed by white wine drinkers.
hailmanJohn Hailman of Oxford is a regular contributor to HottyToddy.com on two subjects: Law and Wine. Now retired from both his “day job” as a federal prosecutor in Oxford after 33 years and his “night job” of 25 years as a nationally syndicated daily columnist in more than 100 daily papers on wine, food and travel for Gannett News Service and the Washington Post, Hailman will cover both topics under the titles of The Legal Eagle and Wine Tips of the Week. HottyToddy.com will also run periodic excerpts from Hailman’s upcoming book of humorous legal stories, From Midnight to Guntown: True Crime Stories From A Federal Prosecutor in Mississippi. Hailman now teaches Federal Trial Practice and Law and Literature at the University of Mississippi.

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Eating Oxford

The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford

A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends

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OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.

Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.

The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.

A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.

The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.

Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.

Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.

Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.

One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.

The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.

For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.

Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.

Menu impressions and pacing

Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.

Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.

Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.

One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.

It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.

Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.

Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.

Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.

These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.

The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.

Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.

The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.

When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.

This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.

Final thoughts

The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.

Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.

The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.

Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.

For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.

Key takeaways

  • The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.

  • Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.

  • Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.

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Eating Oxford

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.

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The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.

The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.

From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny BarBack NineQuack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.

The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.

So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.

To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.

You can register for the event here: Pirate Pub Crawl
The first “docking” of the boat will be at the Powerhouse Thursday night
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Eating Oxford

Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service

At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out

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OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.

It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.

A first impression that lasts

Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.

Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.

There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.

Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.

A menu with depth and purpose

The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.

The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.

These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.

Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.

The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.

Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.

Service that elevates the experience

While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.

In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.

That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.

Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.

Finishing strong with dessert and drinks

When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.

Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.

Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.

The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.

Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.

Consistency and craft at the center

Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.

A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.

It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.

Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.


Location and hours of operation

  • Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655

  • Phone: (662) 236‑1144

  • Hours:

    • Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

    • Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

    • Sunday: Closed

    • Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.

    • More details at lenorasrestaurant.com


3 key takeaways

  1. Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.

  2. Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.

  3. Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.

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