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Eating Oxford

On Cooking Southern: Red Velvet Cake and Whoopie Pies

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Red Velvet Whoopie Pies

Red Velvet Whoopie Pies

Sweet Endings For Your Valentine’s Day

By Laurie Triplette

ldtriplette@aol.com

SOUTHERNISM OF THE WEEK:

In High Cotton: Equivalent of “Sittin’ pretty,” as in doing well, or being well off. Think the Ole Miss Rebels after the 2013 football National Signing Day (Thanks to Hugh Freeze and company!)

It’s that time of year when our favorite politically incorrect (aka not healthful) southern cake is showing its true colors everywhere. You know the primary color – it’s red; the brighter, the better. I’m talking about Red Velvet Cake, which in its various incarnations has become synonymous with decadent Southern sweets laden with shortening and food coloring. But like many other dishes, this recipe originated elsewhere in the national scene. We simply perfected it, claimed it as our own, and now honor special occasions with Red Velvet whoopie pies (sandwich cookies), cupcakes and cheesecakes, as well as the towering cakes.

So where did it all begin? Velvet cakes were first noted during the 19th century. Dr. Alvin Wood Chase’s 1873 “receipt” book in Ann Arbor, Michigan, contained velvet cakes, referring to cakes with velvety crumb texture. The Good Things to Eat Cookbook of 1885, published in Chicago, contained recipes for Velvet Cake, as did The Boston Cooking-School Cookbook of 1896. Most were butter cakes containing buttermilk, and some contained cocoa.

By 1910 the term velvet referred to any cake containing a fine crumb, and the red referred to red sugar or anything containing brown sugar. The crossover to Devil’s Food Cake is noted as early as 1902, in a chocolate version of Velvet Cake. Red Devil’s Food cake of the time referred to brown sugar and dark cocoa. NOTE: Cocoa powder at that time was unprocessed, and its natural anthocyanin pigment turned reddish when combined with acidic buttermilk and vinegar. Modern “Dutch processed” cocoa does not turn colors because it has been treated to render it chemically neutral.

Our own 1910 Oxford-University Methodist Church community cookbook contained a number of cake recipes such as Silver Cake, Mahogany Cake, Velvet Cake, and Red Cake. And a recipe for Philadelphia Red Cake was included in The Perry Home Cook Book in 1920, suggesting a direct connection between Devil’s Food and Red Velvet Cake. The 1920 recipe is identical to a modern recipe for Red Devil’s Food Cake.

According to award-winning pastry chef Stella Parks (a Southerner), of Table 310 in Lexington, KY, and author of “The Unknown History of Red Velvet Cake,” the Red Velvet name was more of a flourish than a color wheel reference until the Great Depression. That’s when John A. Adams began promoting his Adams Extract Company products in the Midwest and South under a color photo of a VERY red Red Velvet Cake. The company, located in Texas and with ties in Michigan, offered free copies of the cake recipe with every purchase of Adams Best Vanilla, Adams Butter Flavor, and every two bottles of red food coloring. Mr. Adams’ marketing ploy worked. Red Velvet became the new favorite cake for Southerners in particular, although Canadians liked their version on the menu at the restaurants and bakeries of the Eaton’s Department Store chain.

Numerous legends have arisen about Red Velvet Cake. The most popular legend to this day is the one about the Waldorf Astoria cake version. Allegedly, the swanky hotel charged a client $350 to send her a copy of their Red Velvet Cake recipe. Outraged, the customer is said to have printed up 3-by-5 cards containing the recipe and handed them out en mass, and the Waldorf Astoria Red Velvet Cake (containing red beets) became known as $100 cake or $200 Cake. Fact or Myth? It’s an urban myth. What is a fact is that Southerners generally do NOT add beets to our Red Velvet Cake to create the red color, even though too much Red Dye No. 40 is potentially hazardous for our health.

By 1972, when James Beard wrote about three different types of Southern-mainstay Red Velvet Cakes in his American Cookery book, the cake had become a Southern star, loved for its extravagant usage of butter, shortening, cocoa, buttermilk, and vinegar, frosted either with a rich roux-based white icing known as Ermine or Snow White Icing, or with cream cheese frosting. Of course, only we Southerners could transform this once innocent cake recipe into the truly tacky. Think Armadillo Groom’s Cake and the 1989 movie, Steel Magnolias. Gotta love it.

RED VELVET CAKE

Red Velvet CakeCake:

1-1/2 c shortening

2 eggs

1 T salted butter

1-1/2 c white granulated sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

3 T cocoa powder

1-1/2-oz bottle of red food coloring

1 T white distilled vinegar

1 tsp table salt

1 tsp baking soda

1 c buttermilk (lowfat is okay)

2-1/2 c cake flour, sifted

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Grease and flour three 8-inch pans. Cream together the shortening, sugar, eggs, vanilla, and butter. Combine cocoa and food coloring in a small glass or metal bowl. Mix it into a paste and add to creamed mixture. Mix salt, vinegar, and soda together and add to buttermilk in a small bowl. Alternate adding flour and the buttermilk mixture into the creamed mixture, beating well after each addition. Pour into prepared cake pans. Bake 20-25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes, and turn out onto floured cloth on rack. Cool completely before frosting.

Ermine Frosting:

Use cream cheese frosting if you can’t tolerate gluten. This is a butter cream frosting using the gluten in flour and the casein in milk to create a suspension emulsion. The Snow White Frosting variation calls for blending in shortening.

1 c whole milk

3 T plain flour

1/4 tsp table salt or a pinch of Kosher salt

1 c unsalted butter

1 c white granulated sugar (super-fine is allowed)

1 tsp vanilla extract (clear vanilla is preferred, but not required)

Whisk flour into milk and place over medium heat in small sauce pan. Cook, whisking, until thickened (drizzling the mixture over the surface will leave lines briefly before they “melt” back into the mixture). Remove thickened flour mixture from heat and whisk in salt. Pour into a bowl to stop cooking. Cover with plastic wrap touching surface to prevent surface crust. Refrigerate for 1 hour while creaming butter and sugar with mixer until fluffy. Add vanilla to creamed sugar and mix thoroughly. Begin adding the cooled flour and milk with mixer running on medium speed, adding about 1 tablespoon at a time. The icing will be extremely light and fluffy, and should look slightly curdled before spreading onto the cake. Refrigerate the cake just as you would with cream cheese frosting.

RED VELVET WHOOPIE PIES

The Whoopie Pie may have originated in New England, but the Pennsylvania Amish and Moravian settlers brought them down to the Southern Appalachians, where Tar Heel and Volunteer cooks embraced the convenience and good flavors of these cake-like cookies sandwiched with creamy filling. Feel free to use marshmallow cream or ermine icing as a filling for this whoopee pie, instead of cream cheese filling.

Whoopie Pies

3 c of all-purpose flour

1/3 c of cocoa powder

1 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 c unsalted butter, room temperature

1/2 c vegetable shortening

1/2 c light brown sugar, packed into the cup

1 c white granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 tsp vanilla extract

3 tsp red food coloring

1 c whole buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350˚F, with rack in center. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Combine in a bowl the dry ingredients, and whisk together until completely blended and all one color. Beat the butter, shortening and both sugars on low to medium speed until combined, then on high till fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well. Add vanilla and food coloring, beating on low to avoid splashing, then on medium until just blended. Mix in half the flour and half the buttermilk, beating on low to medium, scraping down the sides. Add remaining flour and buttermilk and beat until completely blended.

Use medium cookie scoop (scoop measures 1-1/2 inches across) to drop batter onto prepped sheets, in four rows of three scoops per row, evenly spaced apart. (Scoop should be full but level). Bake one sheet at a time on center rack, about 7 to 10 minutes, until cakes spring back when pressed lightly with finger. DO NOT OVER BAKE. Remove from oven and cool 5-10 minutes before transferring to wax paper on rack. Scrape off cake crumbs from the parchment paper, turn it over, and reuse. YIELD: 36 cookies, for a total of 18 whoopie pies.

Cream Cheese Filling

4 oz cream cheese, room temperature (1/2 of an 8-oz package)

4 T butter, room temperature

3-1/2 c powdered sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

Beat cream cheese and butter until smooth, add sugar, beating on low until combined, then add vanilla and increase speed, beating until creamy and smooth, about 4 minutes. Spread thin flat layer of filling on flat side of one cookie. Top with second cake, flat-side facing filling. Store up to 3 days in airtight container in fridge, with waxed paper between layers to prevent sticking.

 

Eating Oxford

The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford

A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends

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OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.

Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.

The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.

A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.

The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.

Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.

Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.

Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.

One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.

The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.

For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.

Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.

Menu impressions and pacing

Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.

Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.

Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.

One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.

It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.

Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.

Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.

Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.

These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.

The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.

Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.

The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.

When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.

This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.

Final thoughts

The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.

Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.

The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.

Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.

For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.

Key takeaways

  • The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.

  • Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.

  • Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.

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Eating Oxford

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.

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The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.

The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.

From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny BarBack NineQuack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.

The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.

So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.

To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.

You can register for the event here: Pirate Pub Crawl
The first “docking” of the boat will be at the Powerhouse Thursday night
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Eating Oxford

Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service

At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out

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OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.

It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.

A first impression that lasts

Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.

Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.

There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.

Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.

A menu with depth and purpose

The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.

The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.

These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.

Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.

The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.

Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.

Service that elevates the experience

While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.

In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.

That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.

Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.

Finishing strong with dessert and drinks

When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.

Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.

Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.

The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.

Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.

Consistency and craft at the center

Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.

A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.

It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.

Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.


Location and hours of operation

  • Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655

  • Phone: (662) 236‑1144

  • Hours:

    • Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

    • Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

    • Sunday: Closed

    • Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.

    • More details at lenorasrestaurant.com


3 key takeaways

  1. Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.

  2. Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.

  3. Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.

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