Eating Oxford
On Cooking Southern: Get Some Backbone and Shell a Few Peas
SOUTHERNISM OF THE WEEK
High on the hog: A state of living or behaving that implies conspicuous consumption, as in “Eula Mae sure is living high on the hog with her new SUV and timeshare in Destin.” This 20th century American expression, first printed in March 1920 in the New York Times, originally referred to inflation “caused” by uppity Southern workers’ preference for the better cuts of pork such as chops and tenderloin, rather than the lower cuts such as knuckles, ears and feet.
IT’S TIME FOR COUNTRY-STYLE PORK AND PURPLE HULLS
Everybody knows that Southerners are partial to pig and peas. We may have started consuming them out of necessity, but nowadays we prefer them. Nothing speaks to us more eloquently than ham or bacon or perfectly roasted, smoked or grilled cuts of pork embellished with dry rub and an occasional drizzle of barbecue sauce. Think pulled pork shoulder, tenderloin and ribs, or center-cut chops.
My 40-year North Carolina experience turned me into a fan of what the Tar Heel nation calls pork backbone. Folks around here call the cut “country-style ribs.”
It only takes two or three country-style ribs to satisfy most hungry diners. That’s why this meaty and lean cut of pork is an excellent budget-extender.
Country-style ribs are not true ribs. Trimmed from the shoulder end of a bone-in pork loin, cut from the front end of the baby backs near the shoulder, country-style ribs lack the bothersome membrane that must be removed from spare ribs and baby backs. If bone is included in the cut, it might be part of a rib or shoulder blade.
They might more accurately be classified as a variation of pork chops. We all know what this means — they should be cooked low and slow, rather than flash-cooked like baby backs.
Serve up that pork with a side dish of fresh peas, a sliced field tomato and a slab of skillet cornbread or a pan of homemade biscuits, and most of us will say we are in hog heaven.
Speaking of peas, for the past few weeks some of us have been jockeying to hit the farmers’ markets as soon as they open. That’s what it takes to grab coveted bags of shelled purple hull peas before they disappear from the cooler. I would say something nasty about the unashamed li’l ol’ blue-hairs who show up at 6:50 a.m. on Saturdays to fill their go-to-market totes with as many quart baggies as their budgets will allow, but I’m now one of ‘em.
I’m not ashamed, either. I’m addicted.
I wasn’t always a big fan of purple hulls, or any pea for that matter, except those too-scarce tiny lady peas. I didn’t care that our Southern “cow” peas were brought to the region with African slaves, and became an essential foodstuff by default when left in the fields by ravaging Union troops who considered them cattle fodder. I certainly didn’t care that Southern peas of all types are rich in protein and other nutrients.
My father, the Memphis city boy with Arkansas roots, used to conspire with his Lake Village and Wynne buddies to bring home bushels and bushels of unshelled purple hulls and other peas when in season. Daddy loved peas.
My idle child hands were put to work hulling them so Mom could freeze them for future use. Therein lies the reason why I didn’t care for those peas: To a somewhat prissy child, an hour spent shelling peas seems like a lifetime, especially when it involves staining one’s fingers.
Time and life experience have a way of altering one’s attitude. Nowadays, I am delighted to expend that hour of energy freeing those peas from their pod cocoons. I am even more willing to pay extra to buy the peas already shelled and bagged.
But right now we’re in a pea lull, and Lafayette County purple-hull lovers will have to wait. We’re between crops, according to Aileen Bost of Bost Farms, the enterprise that runs the Mid-Town Farmers Market in Oxford.
When asked whether her family has any Crowder peas or black-eyed peas, Mrs. Bost shook her head. Everybody around here prefers the purple hulls because they have more flavor, she explained.
I visited Mrs. Bost’s field of peas this week just to check out the second crop of ripening purple hulls. They’re almost ready. She predicts they should start coming in by next weekend. The crop will produce for about two weeks.
Needless to say, my alarm clock is already set for 6:15 a.m.
COUNTRY STYLE RIBS (BACKBONE)
Less is more when seasoning this cut of pork, in my opinion. Kosher salt, pepper and a sprinkle of garlic powder are really all that’s needed for low-and-slow grilling at a temperature of 250-300˚. The backbones love being basted after about 20 minutes with a thin cider vinegar mop sauce. Turn them only once. Of course, feel free to use the traditional Memphis dry rub technique. Save the actual barbecue sauce for the last five minutes or when eating them.
Barbecue sauce
Apple cider vinegar
3 lb country-style ribs with or without bone (5-6 slabs)
Kosher salt
Garlic powder
Fresh ground black pepper
Optional barbecue dry rub of choice (such as Rendezvous or Corky’s)
Thin traditional barbecue sauce with a small amount of cider vinegar until it is more watery than viscous. Rinse the meat and pat dry. Lightly season all sides with spices and optional dry rub. Allow to rest for about 30 minutes.
Place backbone over indirect flame on grill preheated to medium low. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes. (If cooking on medium to medium-high heat the meat will cook rapidly and tend to burn.)
Baste with thinned mop sauce and cover for 5 minutes. Flip meat, baste top, and cover again for 10-20 minutes. Cook longer if needed: Meat is ready when fork tender and pulling away from bone. Serve with heated barbecue sauce.
PURPLE HULL PEAS
Feel free to season with pork, bacon or vegetable broth, and serve with condiments of chopped onion or tomato chili sauce. A bowl of peas makes a terrific supper!
1 qt of shelled purple hull peas
2 tsp bacon drippings
1 fully ripened banana pepper, deseeded and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Fill a 3-quart saucepan half full of water. Bring to a boil and add the peas, bacon drippings and chopped pepper. Simmer until liquid reduces. Season with salt and pepper to taste and continue simmering until remaining liquid becomes a broth and peas are tender. Serve immediately. Refrigerate leftovers, if any, or use in homemade end-of-the-week vegetable soup.
Laurie Triplette is a writer, historian and accredited appraiser of fine arts, dedicated to preserving Southern culture and foodways. Author of the award-winning community family cookbook GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’, and editor of ZEBRA TALES (Tailgating Recipes from the Ladies of the NFLRA), Triplette is a member of the Association of Food Journalists, Southern Foodways Alliance and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Check out the GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’ website and follow Laurie’s food adventures on Facebook and Twitter.
Eating Oxford
The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford
A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends
OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.
Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.
The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.
A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.
The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.
Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.
Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.
Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.
One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.
The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.
For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.
Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.
Menu impressions and pacing
Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.
Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.
Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.
One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.
It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.
Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.
Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.
Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.
These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.
The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.
Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.
The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.
When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.
This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.
Final thoughts
The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.
Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.
The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.
Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.
For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.
Key takeaways
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The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.
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Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.
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Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.
Eating Oxford
Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun
Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.
The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.
The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.
From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny Bar, Back Nine, Quack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.
The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.
Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.
So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.
To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.
Eating Oxford
Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service
At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out
OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.
It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.
A first impression that lasts
Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.
Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.
There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.
Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.
A menu with depth and purpose
The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.
The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.
These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.
Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.
The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.
Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.
Service that elevates the experience
While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.
In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.
That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.
Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.
Finishing strong with dessert and drinks
When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.
Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.
Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.
The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.
Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.
Consistency and craft at the center
Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.
A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.
It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.
Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.
Location and hours of operation
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Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655
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Phone: (662) 236‑1144
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Hours:
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Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
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Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.
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Sunday: Closed
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Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.
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3 key takeaways
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Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.
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Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.
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Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.
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