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Eating Oxford

Prawns? In the Mississippi Delta?

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Yes, prawns. Beaten down by cotton and catfish, at last one Delta family has found success by growing prawns. And restaurants are gobbling them up.
Of a bumpy blacktop near Leland, at the end of a winding dirt road, stands a white clapboard farm house where guests are greeted by a black Labrador called Decoy and a golden retriever named Catfish.
Screen Shot 2014-05-16 at 1.43.32 PMStanding between a big metal tractor shed and a hoop house is a striking woman with raven-black hair and a cheerleader’s perky smile, waving you in.
“Steve, they’re here,” Dolores Fratesi yells. Her husband, unshaven, is wearing muddy work pants and boots, apologizing sheepishly for his appearance. The heavy rain from the day before left a sloppy mess, and he’s been dealing with the repercussions all morning.
Eager to show what they’ve built here, they lead us into a hoop house filled with several large water tanks. She takes an empty glass, scoops up some of the water from a tank and proudly holds it up for all to see.
It looks like dirty water.
But look closer. Each of these microscopic particles, she explains, is a baby prawn. By September, they will be full-grown, ready to be sautéed, stir fried or even wrapped in a sushi roll.
Prawns? In the Mississippi Delta? Yes, these Southeast Asian crustaceans have found a home in the heart of catfish-and- cornbread country. And the Fratesis are a big reason why.
The promoters
They were the first farmers to start growing what they and other farmers hope will be the future of aquaculture in the Delta. They have become crusaders, nudging chefs to put them on menus and farmers to put them in their ponds. They have taken their story to the media, promoting the growth of prawn farming in the same way proud parents wax eloquent on the accomplishments of their children.

The first family of Delta prawns, Steve and Delores Fratesi.

The first family of Delta prawns, Steve and Delores Fratesi.


Steve comes from a long line of farmers, Italian immigrants who settled here more than a century ago to till the Delta soil. Like so many young Deltans, he planned to break from farming and went off to Mississippi State University to study accounting. There, he fell in love with Dolores, who was born in Washington, D.C., but grew up in Greenville. They married and moved to Memphis.
But the pull of the Delta soil was too strong. They moved back to Leland to join the rest of the family in farming cotton and soybeans. In 1985, as cotton’s allure waned, they started growing catfish in man-made ponds, a hot new trend at the time. The industry boomed during the 1980s and 1990s but it peaked around 2003, when imports of cheap Asian fish similar to catfish began to flood America’s shores, undercutting local growers. Since then, many catfish growers in the Delta have fled the businesses.
“Currently there are no catfish farms in Bolivar County and perhaps just a few in Sunflower County,” said Ramona Rizzo of Rizzo Farm near Cleveland. The Rizzos sold out, too, returning to row crops.
But luck was with the Fratesis. Even as catfish were peaking in popularity and profitability, they had already begun their prawn adventure with the help of experts at Mississippi State. Now they grow nothing but prawns, finding a new use for some of those empty catfish ponds. They have even won national recognition for introducing this new, very different food trend to the Delta. The challenge is spreading the word and getting it to catch on.
The harvest
Come the last weekend of September and the first weekend in October, a caravan of cars and trucks from all over the Delta will roar down the winding dirt road bearing containers and ice chests that people will fill with a delicacy being hailed as the new seafood, 100 percent sustainable and eco-friendly. It will be almost like a festival, a celebration that only comes once a year, when the prawns grow big enough to be harvested and plopped on plates in homes and restaurants from here to Memphis.
Lauren Farms, as they call the place, sells the freshly harvested prawns by appointment over those two very busy weekends. It also sells them frozen year-round. “I’ve had people from five states come,” said Dolores. “We’ve got a good trade, I would say, from about three hours’ drive.”
When they started, people thought they were nuts, one more Delta farmer desperately trying to diversify against long odds and finding another loser. But they stuck with it.
Dolores works hard to get the word out. She does regular cooking demos at the Greenville television station. Dolores also pushed to get prawns into local restaurants and now sushi bars in Memphis have started to pick them up, along with Delta Bistro in Greenwood.
Back up that winding road in Leland is a prime example of her efforts. Will Gault, the chef at Vince’s, has been championing the Fratesis’ prawns, cooking them in various ways to cultivate new tastes.
Gault grew up here too. He wants to keep the Delta heritage alive and does it by supporting the Fratesis and other local farmers by putting their products on his menu.
Vince's chef Will Gault fills a table with prawpita pizza.

Vince’s chef Will Gault fills a table with prawpita pizza.


On this day, he serves a prawn feast to a group of visiting journalists. Gault has made prawn pita pizza, prawn ceviche and a take on the Southern favorite shrimp and grits called prawns and polenta, all piled spectacularly on a table with Dolores cheering him on.
They hope this is the future of the Delta. As we speak, a TV crew arrives. So does the local newspaper. This is what Dolores does and she does it well.
Looking to the future
The Fratesis are thrilled that some of their customers now have their own little tanks and are raising prawns in their backyards in tiny ponds. The Fratesis sell them stock to get started.
Prawns differ from shrimp in that they start off in saltwater but eventually grow to full size in fresh water. Much larger, they have a firmer texture and sweeter taste and are more reminiscent of lobster than marine shrimp. They are farmed in 11 states, with North Carolina the main hub of American prawn production.
The Fratesis produce about 750 pounds of prawns per acre. They have 6 acres of ponds and are selling freshly harvested prawns for $8 a pound.
So far, large numbers of farmers have not rushed into the prawn business. Steve says that’s because it’s so different from what most farmers know. They are reluctant to try it “because of the once-a-year harvest. It takes a lot of marketing to do it and you know, we’re used to catfish,” he said.
In a region known for its epidemic obesity, Dolores is quick to assert that prawns are a logical healthy alternative. “They have half the fat of marine shrimp, they have low iodine and sodium, so they’re really almost a little bland. They work really well in different recipes because they don’t compete with whatever seasonings you’re going to use because they just complement everything. They’re low in cholesterol, and they’re basically free range,” she said.
Need help deciding just how to prepare them at home? Delores can provide tips and recipes for such dishes as prawns ‘n bacon and blackened prawn po’boy. In her book Eat, Drink, Delta, Susan Puckett includes a recipe from Delores. “It’s prawns wrapped in prosciutto, and it has tons of garlic and olives and I love serving it with the angel hair pasta, tossed in pesto. You can put them on skewers and serve them as appetizers or as a main dish,” said Puckett.
Along the way, of course, the Fratesis have had to win over the taste buds of people who have been eating shrimp for generations.
“There was a lady, she loves shrimp. She didn’t know if she could eat prawns or not,” Steve said. “So she cooked them and she took them up to the doctor’s office, and she sat there and ate them in front of the doctor. And he said that if she got sick, he’d finish them for her.”
[quote] Will Gault’s Spice Corn Chowder with Chili & Lime Prawns and Assorted Micro Greens
Makes 12 Servings

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 4 slices bacon, diced
  • 2 medium yellow onions, diced
  • 2 jalapenos, seeded and diced
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 8 medium Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
  • 2 red bell peppers, seeded and diced
  • 3 cups roasted sweet corn kernels*
  • 2 tablespoons chopped thyme leaves
  • 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
  • 1 1⁄2 cups milk
  • 1 1⁄2 cups heavy cream
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 3 cups prawn stock**

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste chili and lime prawns:

  • 1 1⁄2 pounds prawns, peeled and cut in pieces, if large
  • 3 tablespoons Asian chili paste or Srichicha sauce
  • 3 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

micro greens, or extra sprigs of cilantro and thyme
In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter; add the bacon and fry until crisp and all the fat is rendered. Remove bacon from the pan and save for garnish. Add onion, jalapenos, garlic, potatoes, red bell peppers and corn to the pan and sauté until the onions and bell peppers are softened. Add the thyme and cilantro, and season to taste. Add milk, heavy cream, prawn stock, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are softened.
With slotted spoon, transfer half of the softened vegetables to a food processor. Puree and add back to the saucepan. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes longer or until the chowder starts to thicken.
While chowder is simmering, marinate prawns in chili paste and lime juice for 15-30 minutes. In a separate sauté pan, heat olive oil just under smoking point. Add prawns to pan and sauté over medium high heat for 2 minutes, or until firm.
To serve: Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with some of the prawns, reserved bacon, and micro greens or herb sprigs.
* Roast ears in husks in a 350-degree oven for 30 minutes or until soft, then cut kernels from cobs. ** made by simmering shells in water at least 10-15 minutes to extract flavor [/quote]
– Story by Rachael Walker, Photos by Katie Williamson. Story and photos originally published in Deeper South: Land of Plenty, an award-winning magazine published by the Meek School of Journalism and New Media at the University of Mississippi. The magazine was named Best Student Magazine in the nation by the Society of Professional Journalists.

1 Comment

1 Comment

  1. Charlie Fowler Jr.

    May 23, 2014 at 9:23 am

    I wish we could get them in Clarksdale

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Eating Oxford

The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford

A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends

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OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.

Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.

The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.

A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.

The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.

Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.

Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.

Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.

One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.

The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.

For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.

Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.

Menu impressions and pacing

Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.

Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.

Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.

One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.

It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.

Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.

Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.

Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.

These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.

The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.

Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.

The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.

When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.

This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.

Final thoughts

The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.

Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.

The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.

Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.

For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.

Key takeaways

  • The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.

  • Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.

  • Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.

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Eating Oxford

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.

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The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.

The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.

From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny Bar, Back Nine, Quack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.

The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.

So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.

To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.

You can register for the event here: Pirate Pub Crawl
The first “docking” of the boat will be at the Powerhouse Thursday night
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Eating Oxford

Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service

At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out

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OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.

It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.

A first impression that lasts

Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.

Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.

There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.

Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.

A menu with depth and purpose

The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.

The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.

These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.

Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.

The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.

Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.

Service that elevates the experience

While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.

In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.

That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.

Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.

Finishing strong with dessert and drinks

When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.

Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.

Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.

The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.

Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.

Consistency and craft at the center

Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.

A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.

It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.

Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.


Location and hours of operation

  • Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655

  • Phone: (662) 236‑1144

  • Hours:

    • Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

    • Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

    • Sunday: Closed

    • Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.

    • More details at lenorasrestaurant.com


3 key takeaways

  1. Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.

  2. Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.

  3. Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.

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