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On Cooking Southern: Sauce is Boss

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all-DSCN5061Dijon mustard and jezebel and comeback sauces.

By Laurie Triplette

ldtriplette@aol.com

SOUTHERNISM OF THE WEEK

Run like a scalded dog: Same as run like the wind, only with more urgency. Like Ole Miss’ #3, Jeff Scott.

Dijon, Jezebel and Comeback

Last week I had to assemble a “Southern cooking care package” for friends living west of the Mississippi. The package contained the all-important grits and Southern baking flour, numerous sauces and seasonings, and even a package of Colonial Finger Rolls for tailgating party sandwiches.

Many of these items are so commonplace in our little center of the universe that we don’t think twice about their availability. But just try relocating to South Bend, Indiana, or Sandy, Utah, or Palm Springs, California, and see what you can find. In South Bend, the sparse selection of “Southern” foods is located in the international aisle, between the Asian and Mexican displays. I kid you not.

The Old Bride’s philosophy of life and cookery states that all Southerners-at-heart should learn how to mix up our favorite seasonings and sauces from scratch. Such knowledge comes in handy when tucked (code word for stuck) in some outback where Creole seasoning and Tabasco Sauce are considered foreign, or while prepping an elaborate dish for the next day’s brunch meeting only to find at 2:20 am that the bottle of that special sauce won’t stretch to fill the recipe. 

This week, we’re going to share recipes for Jezebel Sauce and Mississippi Comeback (Kumback) Sauce. Folks around here love these sauces so much they even bottle them and sell family versions under private labels. Both sauces are synonymous with Mississippi food culture, and are good for dipping, glazing, seasoning, and dressing just about anything edible. We’re also going to learn how to make scratch Dijon Mustard, a crucial ingredient in many Southern dishes. It’s so easy, it should go into every cook’s monthly restock repertoire. Plus, it gives the cook a good reason to uncork a new bottle of dry white wine and tipple while stirring. Hotty Toddy, y’all.

JEZEBEL SAUCE

jezebel-DSCN5027Jezebel Sauce origins are murky. Southern and Gulf coast cooks have been concocting sauces of fruit and fruit preserves, combined with horseradish and mustard since the 19th Century. Coastal Mississippians claim to have originated Jezebel as we know it, but Florida and Louisiana also have a long, loving relationship with the piquant sauce. And by the 1950s, Kansas also claimed Jezebel Sauce. Unlike the fiery, duplicitous queen of King Ahab, our Jezebel is a keeper. Drizzle Jezebel over cream cheese, or use it as a glaze for pork tenderloin or baked ham. It’s also a tasty condiment with hamburgers, chicken nuggets, and egg rolls.

18-oz jar pineapple preserves

16-oz jar apple jelly plus 2 more ounces

1/4 c dry mustard

5 oz jar of fresh horseradish, drained

Salt and pepper (definitely pepper) to taste

Older versions of the recipe call for 10-oz jars of jelly and preserves combined with the same amounts of mustard and horseradish as listed above. Honestly, The Old Bride can’t take the heat!

Combine all ingredients by whisking vigorously in a non-reactive mixing bowl. Scrape into a plastic container, cover tightly and refrigerate. This is very spicy, and needs to age about two days before use so that the mustard and other ingredients blend properly. Yields about 4 cups.

MISSISSIPPI COMEBACK SAUCE

comeback-dipDSCN5055Comeback sauce is a distinctive dipping sauce and salad dressing similar to Louisiana spicy remoulade, only with an entire community involved in a running argument as to which recipe version is the original, and who created it. Comeback Sauce is said by most Mississippi food historians to have originated during the early 1940s at The Rotisserie, a fine dining restaurant in Jackson, MS, owned by the Dennery family, who were among a group of successful Greek and Italian restaurateurs in the region. Allen Dennery created it as the signature house dressing for The Rotisserie salads. Competing Jackson-area Italian and Greek restaurateurs soon developed their own versions. By the 1960s, Jacksonians had learned to dip just about everything edible into the sauce.

The Old Bride experimented with six versions of Comeback Sauce, all claiming to be the original Rotisserie version. They varied in the quantities of ketchup, chili sauce, garlic, onion, and oil. Readers wanting to weigh in on the debate should follow Tom Dupree and his buddy Jim Dollarhide, who provide an entertaining and enlightening ongoing discussion of Comeback Sauce in Tom’s “You and Me, Dupree” blog, accessible via tomdup.wordpress.com. Mary Foreman of www.deepsouthdish.com provides a variation that uses powdered garlic and onion, and ramps up the heat with Cajun seasoning and an extra dash of hot sauce. Her south Mississippi roots are showing!

The compilation I settled on transported me back to my 1950s childhood. I distinctly remember sitting at a cloth-covered table in a restaurant with the grownups, and tasting my mother’s green salad covered in a gorgeous pinkish-shrimp colored sauce. Yum then. Yummier now.

1 large clove garlic or 2 to 3 small cloves, minced

1/4 c minced or grated white onion

1 c mayonnaise

1 tsp prepared yellow mustard

1/4 to 1/3 c ketchup

2/3 to 1 c Heinz chili sauce

(some recipes call for half chili sauce and half ketchup, and some recipes call

for 1/4 or 1/2 c each)

1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp ground black pepper

1 tsp paprika

1 T lemon juice (or Juice of 1/2 to 1 whole lemon)

1 T water

Dash of Tabasco

Salt to taste

Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree until completely mixed. NOTE: For a paler version, reduce the amounts of ketchup and chili sauce. Pour sauce into a plastic container and cover tightly. Refrigerate until use. The version with fresh onion and garlic will last about 4 days. Yields about 3-1/4 cups.

HOMEMADE DIJON MUSTARD

mustard-DSCN5013Prepared mustard is made from the seeds of the mustard plant. There are specific varieties of mustard plants, including white, yellow, brown (Indian) and black mustard. To make prepared mustard, the seeds are ground and mixed with water, salt, lemon juice, and sometimes other seasoning. The seeds contain allyl isothiocyanate and 4-hydroxybenzyl isothiocyanate, which are responsible for the sharp, hot and pungent flavor that hits our senses when tasting mustard. Mustard triggers similar responses as Wasabi and horseradish.

The Romans popularized prepared mustard as a condiment, and exported its use into Gaul. By the 18th century, Dijon had become the hub of French mustard makers, and Grey-Poupon became its most famous manufacturer. Dijon mustard as we know it was created in 1856 by Jean Naigeon of Dijon, who substitute green juice (veerjuice) from not-quite-ripe grapes when preparing his mustard. Over time, white wine was used instead of veerjuice. In 1937, the term Dijon mustard became an official category term for prepared mustard containing white wine.

Easy Dijon Mustard

1 c chopped white onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 c dry white wine

4 oz dry mustard (Colman’s sells a 4-oz tin; 1 oz of dry mustard = 4 T)

1 T vegetable oil (I use extra light olive oil)

2 tsp salt

4 drops Tabasco Sauce

Combine onion, garlic and wine in saucepan; bring to a boil. Simmer on low about 5 minutes, uncovered. Remove from heat and pour into a metal mixing bowl to cool.

Once cooled, strain the wine mixture into a small saucepan containing the dry mustard. Do not include the onion and garlic solids. Mix first with a wooden spoon to mash lumps, and whisk well until mustard dissolves. Add the Tabasco, salt, and oil. Heat on low, whisking to emulsify, until the mixture thickens — only about two minutes. Remove from heat once thickened; scrape into a non-metallic (non-reactive) container. Cool, and cover tightly. Keep refrigerated. MUST refrigerate at least two days before using to allow flavors to blend; keeps about eight weeks. Yields about 2 cups. (Fits perfectly into leftover Lemon Curd jars.)

VARIATION: To make honey-Dijon mustard, add 3 T honey when stirring in the oil and salt.

Laurie Triplette is a writer, historian, and accredited appraiser of fine arts, dedicated to preserving Southern culture and foodways. Author of the award-winning community family cookbook GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’, and editor of ZEBRA TALES (Tailgating Recipes from the Ladies of the NFLRA), Triplette is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA)  and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SOFAB). Check out the GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’ web site: www.tripleheartpress.com and follow Laurie’s food adventures on Facebook and Twitter (@LaurieTriplette).

 

Eating Oxford

The Velvet Ditch brings seafood and steady service to Oxford

A new hot spot offering seafood, bar favorites and steady service in a setting that fits both weeknights and game weekends

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OXFORD, Miss. — The Velvet Ditch has become a regular stop for people looking for seafood plates, sandwiches and a sports-bar setting near the Oxford Square.

Its menu leans toward familiar items, and the service is one of the reasons diners say they return. The restaurant sits on South Lamar Boulevard, close enough to campus and the Square to draw steady traffic on most nights.

The interior features televisions, open tables and a bar that stays busy during major sporting events. Staff members move between areas at a quick pace.

A visitor can see at a glance that the restaurant is built to handle crowds during football weekends or spring baseball series.

The menu includes catfish, shrimp, burgers and pasta dishes. One food-travel site highlighted the “Catfish with Grits” and the “Lobster Mac and Cheese” as standout items.

Another review praised the staff, noting that a server “went above and beyond to ensure guests had a memorable experience.” Those comments help show why service is often mentioned in accounts from diners.

Guests also mention that the kitchen keeps wait times short. Even on harder nights, food tends to reach tables in a steady rhythm. For people on a schedule, that can be a deciding factor.

Some patrons report that visiting in the early evening brings a quieter atmosphere. Later hours often mean a louder bar setting, especially during games or campus events.

One commenter on social media wrote that the place was “packed” but said staff and management stayed active and remained helpful. That reflects a common pattern in local feedback.

The porch and outdoor seating add to the appeal, especially during fall and spring weather. The spot offers extra room for groups and keeps the dining room from feeling crowded when traffic picks up.

For diners seeking a consistent seafood option that works for friends, families or visitors, The Velvet Ditch meets those expectations without trying to be a fine-dining restaurant.

Most guests seem to accept it as a casual place where they can get reliable favorites.

Menu impressions and pacing

Portion sizes fall on the larger side. Some customers report leaving with leftovers, which adds value for a college-town audience.

Pricing falls within the range expected for a restaurant near the Square, though the seafood dishes push slightly higher than the sandwiches.

Most tables seem to order at least one fried dish. For people choosing wings or fried seafood, asking about crispness is a reasonable step.

One local blog gave the wings a 6.8 out of 10, citing texture but praising the seasoning and service.

It is not unusual for fried items to vary between busy and slow shifts, and guests sometimes adjust their orders based on earlier visits.

Pasta selections, including shrimp-based dishes, tend to draw positive remarks for flavor.

Several diners have shared online comments praising the seasoning balance, which can be harder to maintain in larger kitchens on crowded nights.

Service remains one of the restaurant’s strengths. Reports mention hosts greeting guests quickly and servers keeping check-ins consistent without becoming intrusive.

These basic steps stand out in a setting that often juggles game-day crowds.

The bar area typically fills first. Guests wanting a quieter space may choose tables near the front or the patio. Staff usually offer guidance on where noise levels are lower.

Visitors should expect a mixed crowd. Students, families, alumni and travelers pass through during busy weekends.

The range creates a social atmosphere without shifting the restaurant’s identity into a full bar.

When the pace picks up, the kitchen maintains a workmanlike rhythm. Though the menu is wide enough to challenge any staff during peak hours, food tends to be steady.

This consistency is part of why the restaurant keeps its place among Oxford’s regular dining choices.

Final thoughts

The Velvet Ditch presents itself as a casual dining option that fits Oxford’s blend of campus life and regional visitors.

Diners visiting early in the evening, before louder crowds settle in, often get a more relaxed experience. Later hours tilt toward a sports-bar feel, but service remains attentive.

The restaurant’s strengths lie in its steady approach. It does not try to compete with upscale dining rooms in town.

Instead, it focuses on familiar dishes, efficient service and a setting that suits both weeknight diners and visitors in town for a game.

For people seeking seafood or bar favorites near the Square, The Velvet Ditch offers a dependable choice.

Key takeaways

  • The Velvet Ditch delivers steady service and familiar seafood-and-bar dishes near the Oxford Square.

  • Early visits offer quieter meals, while later hours bring louder sports-bar energy.

  • Portions are large, and service remains a strong point even on busy nights.

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Eating Oxford

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship Grounds on the Oxford Square for Three Days of Swashbuckling Fun

Captain Morgan’s Pirate Ship drops anchor in Oxford Square for a three-day rum-filled adventure supporting local arts programs.

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The Oxford Square is about to get a taste of the high seas as Captain Morgan’s legendary Pirate Ship makes landfall for three days of rum, revelry, and community celebration. The nearly 40-foot vessel will drop anchor right in the heart of downtown, inviting residents and visitors alike to climb aboard for photos, exploration, and a chance to join the pirate crew—if they dare.

The festivities kick off Thursday, November 13, with the Captain Morgan Pirate Pub Crawl, benefitting the Yoknapatawpha Arts Council. The crawl begins with a 7:30 p.m. check-in at The Powerhouse Community Arts Center, where participants will experience the Captain’s Tailgate Tour Ship and enjoy a signature cocktail.

From there, crews will sail through town—stopping at Moe’s Penny BarBack NineQuack’s, and The Blind Pig Pub—collecting treasure map stamps, stories, and plenty of pirate memories along the way. The night culminates with a grand drawing for a Captain Morgan Yeti Cooler, stocked with spirits and exclusive gear.

The event is free, with donations and drink proceeds directly supporting the Arts Council’s free community arts programs throughout Oxford.

Participants are encouraged to arrive in full pirate regalia for extra raffle entries and bragging rights.

So grab your eyepatch, raise your glass, and prepare to set sail without ever leaving the Square. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship may be grounded—but the adventure, and the cause it supports, will lift everyone’s spirits.

To learn more, visit www.oxfordarts.com.

You can register for the event here: Pirate Pub Crawl
The first “docking” of the boat will be at the Powerhouse Thursday night
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Eating Oxford

Lenora’s in Oxford delivers solid Southern fare with attentive service

At Lenora’s Restaurant in Oxford, Mississippi the seafood is fresh, the staff attentive, and dishes like rib eye and catfish stand out

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OXFORD, Miss. — At Lenora’s Restaurant in the heart of Oxford, Mississippi, quality doesn’t come from gimmicks or gimmickry.

It’s built from consistency, craft, and the quiet confidence of a kitchen that knows its identity of Southern elegance, balanced by seafood staples and a touch of upscale polish.

A first impression that lasts

Situated at 309 North Lamar Boulevard, just steps away from the Square, Lenora’s manages to create a dining experience that feels elevated without being exclusive.

Soft lighting, rustic wood accents, and an uncluttered layout give the space a comfortable rhythm.

There’s a sense of refinement that doesn’t need to announce itself. It simply exists, welcoming guests into a dining room that suits both quiet conversation and shared celebration.

Tables are well-spaced, and the pace is deliberately calm. From the moment diners walk in, staff are attentive but never overbearing, allowing the experience to unfold at its own tempo.

A menu with depth and purpose

The menu at Lenora’s blends Southern influence with coastal finesse.

The star attractions often lean toward seafood—dishes like the seared catfish Lenora and shrimp pasta Lenora exemplify the restaurant’s commitment to familiar flavors delivered with thoughtful precision.

These dishes arrive hot, well-seasoned, and plated with attention that suggests pride behind the scenes.

Steaks are another strong point. The rib-eye, in particular, arrives with a sear that holds its juices and a side of smashed potatoes that achieves that rare feat of being both comforting and composed.

The mixed grill offerings allow guests to sample a little bit of everything—surf and turf combinations that work in harmony.

Appetizers such as the jumbo lump crab cake and the beef tenderloin skewer serve as a warm welcome to the meal. Meanwhile, seasonal salads, grilled vegetables, and expertly prepared greens round out the plate without feeling like afterthoughts.

Service that elevates the experience

While food often gets top billing in restaurant reviews, the service at Lenora’s deserves its own recognition. Guests routinely highlight the staff’s friendliness and professionalism.

In one recent example, a reviewer praised server Emily S. for being “calm, friendly, and super attentive,” even during a particularly busy evening.

That level of consistency isn’t an accident. The staff—from the front-of-house to the kitchen—operate with clear communication and a shared understanding of what makes for a great dining experience: timing, warmth, and a sense of ease.

Even when the restaurant is bustling on weekends or special occasions, the flow remains steady. Courses arrive at the right intervals, water glasses stay full, and special requests are handled without hesitation.

Finishing strong with dessert and drinks

When it comes to the final course, Lenora’s makes a strong case for lingering just a little longer.

Bread pudding with white chocolate sauce is a standout, offering a warm, rich bite without becoming overly heavy.

Other dessert selections rotate seasonally, giving repeat diners something new to look forward to.

The bar program includes handcrafted cocktails, a curated wine list, and premium spirits, creating an opportunity to extend the evening in relaxed fashion.

Whether it’s a classic old fashioned or a house-infused martini, the drink selection pairs naturally with the pace and style of the meal.

Consistency and craft at the center

Lenora’s isn’t trying to be trendy. It isn’t chasing viral moments or social media flash. What it offers instead is something harder to replicate: a sense of place.

A restaurant that knows who it is, knows what it does well, and delivers on that promise night after night.

It’s this combination of skill in the kitchen, warmth at the table, and ease in the atmosphere that makes Lenora’s a cornerstone of Oxford’s dining scene.

Whether it’s a dinner out with family, a date night, or a business conversation over a meal, Lenora’s fits the moment.


Location and hours of operation

  • Address: 309 North Lamar Boulevard, Oxford, Mississippi 38655

  • Phone: (662) 236‑1144

  • Hours:

    • Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

    • Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

    • Sunday: Closed

    • Note: On major event weekends, opening hours may shift to 4:00 p.m.

    • More details at lenorasrestaurant.com


3 key takeaways

  1. Southern seafood done right — Signature dishes like the seared catfish and shrimp pasta showcase flavor without overcomplicating.

  2. Service with care — Staff are consistently described as professional, warm, and attentive, contributing to the calm, composed environment.

  3. Refined but relaxed — The space strikes a balance between casual comfort and upscale polish, making it accessible to all types of diners.

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